For this month’s Scout Spotlight, we asked one of our veteran Hair and Makeup Artists, Camille Monique to provide us with some tips of the trade for both in front of the camera and #BTS.  

Whether you’re a model, a director, a producer or a photographer there is one thing you have in common: skin problems. Everyone has them and they impede your ability to look natural, healthy and vibrant. Your skin is the largest organ in your body and when it comes to caring for it it can seem quite daunting, but there are some simple ways to make your skin look good and feel good. While there are a million different products on the market, blog posts, and Youtube videos explaining the latest “holy grail” or “must-have’s”, I will attempt to add my 10 year professional makeup artist experience to the plethora of online opinions and share with you my secrets on how to get healthy skin and natural looking makeup. If you are a creative behind the camera, make sure to pass this onto your models so their skin is nice and prepped before your shoot, this will help your makeup artist greatly. While I’m sure they can use special techniques for fixing skin issues time is always of the essence and this will help them go faster!

 

Phase One: Skincare. Persistence, Pressure and Product. These are your key to attaining healthy glowing skin. There is no magic only consistency and a little TLC. Product is important but persistence and consistency are the real heroes here. Without the first 2 P’s the product’s will not be able to do their job.

Persistence: Establish a regiment and stick with it for at least a month before changing it. This way you know if a product is working for you or not. Give it time to do its job. Obviously if your skin reacts negatively (redness, inflammation, clogged pores, etc) then don’t wait – discontinue use immediately. But, many of my clients think the opposite of this is true too: if they don’t see immediately great results they think it doesn’t work for them. Your skin needs time to heal and adjust to new product so give it every opportunity to do so.

Pressure: Apply pressure when working in product (but don’t hurt yourself), and don’t rush through it. This applies to both washing your face and moisturizing it. Massaging products into the skin will open up your pores, allow for blood circulation and the release of toxins, and plump the skin. Your skin will retain the most moisture this way. The best way to apply is by dabbing the moisturizer directly onto the major areas of your face, then massaging it around your face with your fingertips. Don’t spread the moisturizer all over your hands before applying to your face. You will end up with well moisturized hands, but a barely moisturized face;)

Product: Product is always important. Finding the right one is the challenge, but my favorite way to finding skincare gems is getting skincare sampler packs at Sephora. They are a great affordable way at trying out products without commiting to a regular size portion. I try and stay away from fragranced products but it’s hard to cut it out cold turkey and there are still great skincare products that have fragrance. I like layering products. Start with a serum, then an oil free moisturizer for oily skin. For dry skin start with an oil and then a rich moisturizer. Make sure to exfoliate weekly, this is a HUGE help in attaining smooth glowing skin. Wash your skin with a gentle foaming cleanser at the end of the night, then use a toner on a cotton pad to wipe off excess product. This will keep breakouts at bay and allow cell-turnover, which will keep your skin nice and smooth for makeup.

Phase Two: Makeup. Blot, Apply and Set. Next step… Glowing Skin!

Blot: Allow at least 5 minutes for skincare products to soak in and then blot excess oils and product with blotting papers before applying makeup. Pretty straight forward, and seemingly insignificant but so helpful in allowing makeup to last longer.

Apply: Whether you are using a brush or a beauty blender (sponge) it’s important to understand the different tools and techniques used to apply foundation and concealer. Stipple the product onto your skin gently, pushing the product into the skin. If you are using a brush it’s best to use something with a soft, medium density and preferably goat hair or high quality synthetic hair. I love Cozzette for high quality synthetic and Hakuhodo for real goat hair/synthetic. When using a sponge, make sure it’s damp (fully damp and squeeze excess moisture out). This will help diffuse streaks in your makeup, whether by a brush, sponge or fingertips.

Set: If you have dry skin my favorite technique for setting concealer and foundation is using a setting spray. I spray a beauty blender and stipple it on top of my finished foundation and concealer, this will keep your concealer lasting all day without adding powder (which can make your makeup look cakey if you have dry skin). For oily skin, I use a powder. For darker skin I use a lightly pigmented blotting powder, or a lightly pigmented loose powder. Apply powder in light layers, and only where needed. Most people can get heavy handed with makeup, including powder, this will cause texture in the skin to show. For extra glow you can add a spritz of Dewy Skin Mist or press Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in with your fingertips on the high planes of your face (i.e. bridge of your nose, cupid’s bow, above the arch of your brow and below, and on your cheek bones). For oily skin and after setting with powder add a powder shimmer with a loose brush to bring back luminosity to the skin.

My favorite trick to achieving an “I woke up like this” look is to use a wash of bronzer as an eyeshadow, some mascara, and a cream blush. Add a little cream or liquid highlight and a ‘bitten’ lip and BAM! Natural and fresh looking makeup!

For SOS situations, if you don’t have the time to take care of your skin (but you need to look immediately good and glowy), healthy looking skin is attainable, if you are willing to put the time in.

Alex arrived to our beauty shoot with inflamed and irritated skin, thanks to a makeup artist from her shoot the night before. Her face had been scrubbed raw trying to take actual spray paint off (you read that right – paint on her face *face-palm*). We used a little TLC: some oil, Paw Paw ointment and Koh Gen Do Moisture foundation and topped with Becca Shimmering skin perfector in Opal to achieve this dewy glowy goodness. [Viseart eyeshadow palette in Warm, Estee Lauder cream blush in Aerin and Viseart Lip palette in 01 Muse]

 

This model was fresh off the plane the morning of our shoot, with newly dehydrated airplane skin, redness and a break out all over her face. I cleaned her face really well with a gentle toner, thoroughly worked in her moisturizer and carefully applied a thin layer of foundation all over her skin. I applied a layer of matte setting spray, allowed that to dry and then gently went over each acne breakout with concealer, then set everything with a thin layer of powder. Voila! [Viseart Theory Palette in Minx, Viseart Lip Palette in 02 Classics, Senna Cosmetics Blush Palette]

 

Lastly, hydrating your skin from the inside out is an essential. Your skin will show it if you are dehydrated. The recommended intake for water each day is between .5 oz-1 oz per pound you weigh. That’s right, drink that water, people!

Stay fresh, dewy and vibrant!